Unique in All the World
Author: Jason Karl

Back in the good old days, most climbers would end their climb by topping out on the Trapps, then making a long hike to a decent route near the beginning of the cliff. Here, climbers would descend the cliff by falling across a crevice of rock, and grabbing on to the other side before continuing down. It was the nature of this descent which gave the Überfall its name. The act of falling(fall) over(über) quickly caught on and the area adopted the nickname we all know today. These days, the manner that most climbers descend may have changed, but the name of the descent route has survived.

The area around the descent route soon became a gathering place for climbers before and after the long days spent on the cliffs. Nearly everyone finishing off a route was funneled down to the same spot on the Carriage Road. It was here that climbers new to the sport would run into the legends of the day and veterans would meet up with old friends. News of first ascents and visiting climbers often buzzed in the air. Then as the sun sunk low behind the cliffs, climbers would all pass through the area again, some sneaking in a final route or two and nearly everyone stopping to recount their day's events.

The Überfall was and continues to remain the heart and soul of not just of the Gunks, but the entire region. Despite the fact that most climbers now rappel their routes or park far from the area, it is still a place that draws climbers in and forces interaction. One reason for its continued popularity can be witnessed on any given weekend. The Carriage Road that runs right against the cliff makes it convenient for large groups to congregate at the base of a route. The short length of the climbs make for easy toprope setups, and it's not uncommon to see parties sharing lines like Retribution and Nosedive. Running into old partners is still as common as ever, and the war stories told at the end of the day are just as colorful.

The Überfall is an ever changing place, but through it all, it always retains its character. The walk back to your car is a little longer these days. You won't find the ranger's truck camped below Laurel anymore, and you certainly can't roll your sleeping bag under Doug's Roof for the night. But the rock is the same as it's always been and it will continue to draw and inspire climbers for a long time to come.

In all my travels, I've yet to find a place quite like the Überfall. Sure, other climbing areas have places where climbers congregate, but they just can't match all the qualities that this small spot at the beginning of the Trapps possesses. Nowhere else is there such a classic cliff where nearly all of the area's climbers are funneled past, and there is no place that has such easy access to wide flat areas where large parties can spread out, share lines, and run into old friends. Add some classic bouldering, a refreshing spring, and an amazing history and you have a place that can't be beat in all the world.

When I decided to create a web site dedicated to climbing in the Gunks, I could think of no better name than the Überfall. Just like Camp 4, it's a name known throughout the world for its important role in American climbing. My goal for this web site was to create a place to relive history, meet up with familiar faces, and make plans for future adventures. Like its Gunks counterpart, I hope you stop by often and decide to become a part of it.

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