 Popular Gunks climbs can get quite crowded on the weekends, but there are options often a stone's throw away from the super classics. |
There are so many classic climbs in the Gunks that one could get into quite an argument over which routes are the best, which routes best exemplify the nature of the Gunks, and which routes are best to sandbag your friends on. In this article we're going to look at a few routes that aren't always the first on climber's ticklists, but are often fondly remembered when brought up in conversations. These are the routes that exist just out of the limelight of the classics of their grade, yet are amazing routes that you'd recommend to anyone. These are the routes that live in the shadows of the Gunks heavyweights.
5.2- We're going to stoop all the way down the grading scale to begin with what many may remember as one of their first climbs in the Gunks. While Easy Overhang is grabbing all the attention down near the Überfall, Casa Emilio quietly resides a long walk down the Carriage Road. Just like it's more popular brethren, its second pitch is what you climb it for. Stepping off the belay, you're greeted by a beautiful cruise on clean white rock. The solitude makes the far walk worth it, and you'll never have to worry about waiting on line, or tiptoeing over the ropes of neighboring climbs like on Easy O. Dick Williams calls Casa Emilio "THE best 5.2 in the Gunks." After you climb it, I think you'll agree.
5.3- There are plenty of high profile options when it comes to quality climbs in this grade, and nearly all of them are in the Trapps. Betty is a great diverse climb within earshot of the Überfall. It's easy approach does mean that it gets a fair bit of traffic, but it's usually less crowded than its peers. A wide slabby crack snakes up the first pitch and provides plenty to grab, kick and scrape past. The second pitch brings a change of character as it leads over a series of ledges then through a set of chimneys. It's a great climb for the sake of the variety one will encounter, and it's low position on the grading scale makes it a convenient way of getting a beginner up a multi-pitch climb.
5.4- Gelsa in the Near Trapps stands out as the best 5.4 these days now that Petie's Spare Rib and Lakeview are off limits at Skytop, but don't overlook Sixish as a true contender. The name might be implying that it might feel harder than it is, and the "+" at the end of the rating will allow you to believe that you're probably right. Don't let the name frighten you if you're solid at 5.6. The crux first pitch will leave you exposed, the second pitch eases off slightly while pushing you higher. The final pitch brings you back in touch with the grade then lets you finish it off with style. Not a bad little gem.
5.5- While the Trapps hosts numerous classics at this grade, Layback in the Nears gets my vote as the unassuming gem of the bunch. It features two pitches of beautiful clean climbing with lots of variety strewn along the way. Once you struggle past the opening chimney, a graceful corner sees you through to the belay. Don't overlook second pitch which has some excellent climbing. Even though it's only 5.3, the exposed climbing more than makes up for it.
5.6- This is a classic grade at the Gunks and the nods for best climbs will always go to the uberclassics like Shockley's Ceiling, High Exposure, and Madame G's. Many others stand out like Baby, Disneyland, and Rhododendron, but the one I find myself returning to most often is Grease Gun Groove in the Near Trapps. Perhaps it's because its first pitch makes a great toprope when you're done, or perhaps it's because one can often find it unoccupied even on weekends, or maybe it's the climbing itself, an awkward bouldery start leads to a smooth cruise up a slabby corner before swinging around a roof and onto a juggy face. I'm still not sure, but I do know that the first pitch of this climb deserves mention when recommending climbs in the 5.6 grade. I'm sure it'll make a repeat customer out of you too!
