Ecological Effects of Rock Climbing on the Shawangunk Mountain Ridge

"Introduction"
Author: Jeff Karl

What draws you to come and climb at the greatest rock climbing area in the world? I hope you don’t think I’m being too pompous with that statement, but among other things our very own High Exposure is considered to be the best route in the world at a 5.6 difficulty. Seriously though, what makes the Shawangunks the Shawangunks?

Well, besides its world class rock climbing and impressive grandeur, there is an unprecedented ecological community that is often overlooked. This community includes over 1,400 plant and animal species, of which 29 are rare or endangered. Some of the wildlife includes: bobcats, black bears, fox, timber rattlesnakes, spotted salamanders, rare insects, and over 200 species of birds (including the endangered peregrine falcon). The rare and endangered plants include among others: mountain spleenwort, clustered sedge, broom crowberry, helmet flower, Carolina cranesbill, and over 2,000 acres of dwarf pitch pine (the best example of ridge-top dwarf pine barrens in the world). Now, these names and numbers may not mean much to you, since they are just names and numbers, but how about The Nature Conservancy’s designation as “one of Earth’s last great places.” The Nature Conservancy did not give it this designation because of the rock climbing, but rather because of the incredible species biodiversity.

To me, the Shawangunks go beyond being just a cliff to climb. I was born and raised in New Jersey, as I’m sure many of you have been, but have decided to repeatedly travel the almost two hours to get here seemingly every weekend for the past thirteen years. There are crags in New Jersey, the Watchung cliffs, that are within walking distance from my house, but the Shawangunks have the rich biodiversity that adds a whole new level to the climbing experience. I enjoy seeing plants and critters while I am climbing. These encounters allow me to feel like I am one with the rock and the captivating natural beauty that surrounds it. I can only presume that other climbers drawn to this magnificent ridge appreciate it as much as I do.

Traditional rock climbing is practiced here in an attempt to preserve the cliffs and prevent rock scarring from drilling and bolting. Chipping and gluing holds is also currently banned for good reasons, so looking from a general standpoint, rock climbing in the Gunks has been satisfactorily regulated to minimize the impact it has upon the ridge. Having these rules in place allows climbers to feel at ease, that they are helping to preserve the ridge and to prevent the destruction of the place they love.

Although in reality, rock climbing is destroying the Shawangunk Mountain Ridge. Current regulations, ethics, and management practices are reducing some of the obvious impacts upon the ridge, but there are still other obvious and not so obvious impacts of rock climbing on the ecosystems of the Gunks that are overlooked, ignored, or thought to be of no significance. Some of these obvious impacts have been addressed, and are arguably working quite well (such as the placement of rappel slings on frequently used trees to reduce the scarring of the tree when the rope is pulled).

There are many other problems that are overlooked, ignored, or thought to be of no significance, and for various reasons. I hope to discuss the intense interactions and impacts that rock climbers have with the cliff. I plan on having monthly articles examining certain issues that either my colleagues or I have come across. For instance, I hope to discuss lichen removal from the rock face, soil compaction and why that’s harmful both along the cliff base and upon the cliff ledges, specific endangered species that rock climbing destroys or displaces, and many other topics related to the recreational uses of the ridge. I will follow the problem from cause to effect and try to offer various solutions on how to remedy each issue.

I encourage all scholarly responses to my articles, as I am an ecologist, and if my presumptions are flawed I yearn to be corrected. I also encourage original, insightful analysis upon other issues caused by rock climbing. Although all scholarly works intrigue me, I must limit the topic to the effect of rock climbing upon the Shawangunk Ridge. All responses should be posted on the message board beneath the designated topic for each article. This allows all readers to know “who said what,” and give everybody a chance to read all comments and be able to respond to all comments. Thank you for reading and responding, and I hope we all can take something from this section.

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